Valve Cover Gasket

This one is a big issue on e46 BMWs the valve cover gasket leaks and oil drips onto the exhaust and smells up the whole car. So to replace it you will need a t30 torx driver, a 1/4 ratchet 8 and 10 mm socket, and a brilo pad. Supplies you will need are victor reintz high temp sealant, a new valve cover gasket, 15 grommits for the bolts, and some rags. First open the hood and locate the the microfilter, undo the tabs and pull the cover and filter out. This will expose 3 torx screws, unscrew these and remove the whole metal piece. Be sure to unhook the cover for the wires and pull the wires out as they are connected to that piece. Next pop the covers off the engine cover to expose 10mm nuts. Remove all 4 bolts to remove both of the covers and set them aside. Now you can see the coils each one is held on by two 10mm bolts. Remove them all then remove the ground straps on either end with an 8mm also remove the ground in the middle of the valve cover also an 8mm. Pull all the coils out and undo the vacuum hoses and o2 sensor wires from the side of the valve cover. Unclip them and move them out of the way. Undo the 15 10mm bolts on top of the valve cover, 4 are in the middle near the coils and the rest are along the outside. Once all the bolts are out pry up on the valve cover with the flat head. Be careful the valve cover can break! Once the valve cover is off get the old gasket out and clean with rags to get all the old oil out. The gasket may be hard and difficult to get out this happens often and is why it is leaking. Also make sure all the old grommits are off of the cover. Next clean the surface where the gasket touches on the head with the brilo pad. This makes a clean surface for the new gasket. Place the new gasket on the cover and put the new grommits on the cover bolts. Once everything is clean apply the high temp sealant in the shape of a U on the front and rear of the head. Be sure to get in the half moons of the vanos and in the rear. Place the valve cover back on the head, be sure there is nothing being pinched and the gasket is even. Put the bolts on and tighten down a little, I prefer to get all the bolts in and then tighten them in a cross pattern. The bolts should be tightened by hand and will bottom out, that is when they are tight. Put the coils back in, connect the ground straps, and tighten the coils. Put the covers back on and reattach the microfilter assembly. Double check you didn't forget anything and close the hood.

Rear Shocks

Replacing the rear shocks on your e46 is fairly easy and can be achieved with a simple set of hand tools. You will need a ratchet with a 13 and 18mm sockets. You will need the new shocks with new top mounts sachs or bilsteins will work. Start by taking the interior carpet in the trunk out, relieving the top mounts. Jack up the car and put it on stands. First take the two nuts off of the top of the mounts inside the trunk. The shock and mount should fall through especially if they are old and worn. Now under the car locate where the bottom of the shock mounts to and remove the 18mm bolt. The shock should now be free and you can remove it from the car. The new shocks will most likely come without the mounts attached, so you will need the screw the new mounts on the top. Loosely attach the the bottom of the shock while positioning the top in position. Now slowly lower the car to bring the top mount into position and when it is through and in place tighten the nuts and lower it fully. Once the top is secure tighten the bottom mount on the ground. Do this to both sides, shocks should be replaced as a set. Once everything is tight you can reassemble the trunk interior and drive.

Pulleys

Idler pulleys can scream when they need to be replaced. Also you can test them by spinning them and listening, they should not make much noise if so replace them. To replace them you need fan tools, pry tool, ratchet and 13mm socket, and the new pulley. The removal of the fan and shroud has been explained in previous posts so if needed reread that. Once the fan and shroud has been removed undo the serpentine belt by relieving the tension on the pulley. Once removed spin the pulley by hand and listen if it is loud or had play it is bad. To replace this pop the plastic cover off and unscrew the bolt. Once removed slide the pulley off the bolt and slide the new pulley on. Make sure the notch is lined up with the raised notch on the back of the pulley. Tighten the pulley down and reassemble the belt, fan and shroud.

Belts

If your belts are cracking then they need to be replaced. This can be easily done but you need the right tools. You will need a set of fan removal tools, you can't use anything else but the wrenches made for this job. If you can acquire them you can do this job. Alright you will need the fan removal tools, a ratchet and 13mm socket, a pry tool, and the new belts. First take the two clips out from the fan shroud located on the top on either side. Next remove the fan with the fan tools, remember the fan is reverse thread so its not lefty loosey. Once the fan is off pull the fan and shroud up and out of the engine bay. Now you have more room to work and get to the belts. Use your 13mm and turn the nuts on the tensioners to give the belt slack. The nuts are located in black on the diagram. Once the belt is slack remove it from the pulleys. You have to remove the ac belt first and then the serpentine belt and replace vice versa. To replace them put the belt on all the pulleys but the idler pulley than move the tensioner with your ratchet and slide the belt on. For the ac belt put the belt on except the tensioner and then release the pressure and slide it on. Make sure you route the belts in the correct order. Then reassemble the fan and shroud, they go in and out as one so don't screw the fan on without the shroud in place. Remember the fan is reverse thread. Put the clips back in the shroud and you are done.

Brakes

Replacing your brake pads is easy on your e46. You will need a jack and stands, 17mm socket, a 7mm allen, a flat head screw driver, and a c clamp. The supplies you will need are brake pads and a brake sensor. I would recommend textar pads as they do not dust and any sensor you can get. First jack up your car and put the stands underneath. Take the wheels off with your 17mm socket. Use your screwdriver to pry off the anti rattle clip on the caliper. Then take off the covers of the caliper bolts. Next unscrew the carrier bolts and pull off the caliper. Remove the pads from the caliper and use the c clamp to push the piston back in. Now put your new pads in and slide the caliper back on the rotor. Attach the carrier bolts back to the caliper. On the driver side of the car there will be a brake sensor connected on the top of the inside pad. Follow the wire up to the connector and disconnect it and connect the new one. Push the new sensor into the brake pad. When you are finished with both sides put the wheels back on and lower the car. Be sure to pump up the brakes before you drive and if the brake sensor light is still on turn the key on but engine off and leave it on for a minute and the light should extinguish.

Hand Brake Adjustment

Does your hand brake only engage at the very top? This is not safe if your car is manual so I am going to explain how to tighten it. You will need a quarter inch ratchet, a extension, and a ten millimeter socket. Sit in the drivers seat and pull up on the hand brake boot near the shifter. Once it is up, pull the boot as far away from the bottom as possible to give yourself room. Do not detach the boot from the handle. Grab your 10mm setup and tighten the two nut on either side of the hand brake. Try to tighten them evenly. As you tighten them periodically check to see if the hand brake engages lower. It should stop about 5 to 7 clicks up. Once you have achieved this reattach the boot and drive!

Control Arm Bushings

Control arm bushing go bad all the time you will notice them when you brake quickly, the car will lurch when first getting on the brakes. You can also diagnosis them by jacking up the car and pushing the wheel towards the rear. It should not have much play if it does the bushings are failing. So now how to replace the bushing on your BMW e46 3 series. Items you will need are a knife with a serrated edge, rubber mallet, 16mm socket, and a ratchet. Also you will need the new control arm bushings and some lubrication (silicon spray works well). Start by jacking up the car, then get under the car and locate the bushings located in yellow on the picture. The metal plate locate in the red box appears on certain car but not all. If it is there you will need to remove it. Next unbolt the two bolts holding on the bushings to let the arm hang down. This will give you room to work away from the car. Next cut the rubber around the bushing. Once the metal part of the bushing is off cut the rubber straight through to the arm. Once you remove all the rubber from both sides spray your lubricate on the metal arm. Be sure to put the correct bushings on the designated side, It does matter. Hit the new bushing with the mallet to get it on. Next bolt the new bushings up. Bolt the metal plate back up if you have one, lower car, and drive.